Fashion today: Variety is inevitable

Back in history, fashion used to cater mainly to one demographic group: rich, slender, and white. Remember Charles Frederick Worth and the birth of the haute couture only for the rich. Until the industrial revolution took place, and ready-to-wear was born, the demographics of fashion expanded.

However, in terms of marketing and advertising always narrow in a group of audiences. Especially fashion magazines, models on catwalks and even in today's fashion houses.

Ethnic division

The first woman of color on the cover of a fashion magazine is Donyale Luna, who appeared in British Vogue in March 1966, photographed by photographer David Bailey. However, the iconic cover of the photo at the time hid most of Luna's face at the request of the editor to hide the model's ethnicity. At that time, it was not so common for a woman of color to be in the high fashion world, let alone on magazine covers. Donyanle Luna became America's first black model.

From left to right: Donyale Luna - Beverly Johnson - Naomi Campbell

Only after 8 years, the American Vogue introduced a face color. In 1974, Beverly Johnsonbroke appeared on the cover with pictures taken by Francesco Scavullo. Johnsonbroke's skin color was not the main topic the magazine was addressing. Instead, Vogue introduced elegant beauty that is authentic, touchable and timeless. However, according to the model, so is also not easy anything.

It took another 14 years for Vogue France to have the first black woman on the cover. In 1988, Naomi Campbell made her first cover appearance, although she has worked a lot with famous designers. But the reason behind that is because Yves Saint Laurent has threatened to cut the ad if the newsroom does not.

The issue of racism doesn't just happen to Africans. Asians also had only the first model on the cover in 2005, photographed by Patrick Demarchelier for French Vogue. However, model Du Juan had to share the cover with Australian model Gemma Ward. Eight years later, the first Asian model appeared on the cover, Fei Fei Sun for the 2013 Italian Vogue.

Gemma Ward and Du Juan (left) Fei Fei Sun (right)

From the examples above, black models are often seen as novel factors rather than a decisive audience in the brand's target demographics. Fashion brands didn't feel the need for them to appear, so they missed out on this market share. By emphasizing arbitrary importance, rather than awareness and ideas of diversity and universality, brands have truly missed out on great opportunities to grow their business profits.

Black models are often seen as novel factors rather than a decisive audience in the demographics that brands target. Fashion brands didn't feel the need for them to appear, so they missed out on this market share.

The variety on the catwalk did not appear until the 1973 event. An American publisher Eleanor Lambert introduced American fashion to Europe at the Palace of Versailles. Lambert was the first to use 12 black models on his catwalk. However, this lawbreak is a rare thing, centuries later on the catwalk are mostly white models, they catwalk and appear in advertising publications and magazine covers.

Eleanor Lambert introduced American fashion to Europe at the Palace of Versailles

Influence of globalization 

In 2008, things started to change in fashion, as a result of globalization. People travel internationally and explore more culture, large numbers of migrants and consumer group shifts, the explosion of information and connectivity through social media platforms, all of which are catalysts. make a change.

Society has progressed, and in no greater influence than the US having the first black president in history, Barack Obama, followed by the first woman to assume the role of German prime minister, Angela Markel. . Movement for LGBTQ increased around the world, social responsibility and sustainability trends also awakened the world and the fashion industry.

In July 2008, the American Vogue published a topic: "Is Fashion Racist?" (Translated: Is it racist fashion?). The post has raised an issue that has long been ignored. It speaks of how the fashion catwalk gathers a homogenous group of people, 'the executions of anonymous, pretty, young, skinny, flabby body with loose hair tied. behind". This recognition, coupled with the influence of magazines in publishing, forced the fashion industry to rethink business strategy. The problem is not only in the differentiation of the model on the catwalk, but also in magazines, promotional campaigns and products from brands. It took more than 35 years, since Donyale Luna appeared in the British publication Vogue, people have accepted the change.

The awakening of the fashion industry

As millennials and Generation Z become important consumer groups, forcing the fashion industry to become more socially conscious. Words like 'transparency,' 'carbon emissions', 'gender equality', 'homosexuality' and 'gender binary' * as well as movements like 'MeToo' and 'Time's Up' created so the impact is huge, especially between 2016 and 2018. The fashion industry has started to show a positive response to diversity, inclusion and other issues.

As millennials and Generation Z become important consumer groups, forcing the fashion industry to become more socially conscious.

According to The Fashion Spot, the fall 2018 fashion promotion campaigns are the most racially diverse, with 35% of models in non-white campaigns and it has been a significant uptrend since. 2016. In addition, the 2019 spring runway shows have the most racial diversity ever with 36% of black models selected from the four largest fashion capitals in the world New York, London, Milan and Paris. .

The cover of Vogue Mexico in January 2019 with the cover face is Yalitza Aparicio, a Mexican actor

The fashion magazines in September 2018, which sold the most copies with the highest number of pages and ads, also exhibited diversity. A total of 16 A-list magazine covers for black models on the cover, something unheard of in the fashion industry. The cover of Vogue Mexico in January 2019 with the cover face is Yalitza Aparicio, a Mexican actor.

The cover of Vogue in March 2017 shows a group of multi-ethnic models such as China - Lui Wen, USA - Ashley Graham, Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid (Dutch and Palestinian), Dutch - Imaan Hammam (Egyptian descent and Moroccan), English - Adwoa Aboah (British and Ghanaian descent) and Italian model - Vittoria Ceretti. However, such diversity is not enough.

The Vogue cover in March 2017 shows a group of diverse models

Not just skin color

Diversity is no longer narrowed in skin color, but also in body size, ethnicity, sex and age, so the definition of “diversity” has changed. Since 2017, The Fashion Spot has added age, size, and transgender patterns to measure diversity on the catwalk.

Saint Laurent chose Betty Catroux, 73, as the face of the promotional campaign run by creative director Anthony Vaccarello for the Fall 2018 collection.

The proliferation of large-sized models on the catwalk. In 2016, Ashley Graham became the first plus-size model to appear on the cover of Sports Illustrated swimsuit theme. In January 2017, her face appeared on the cover of Vogue UK. Graham became part of the fashion empire, from Dolce & Gabbana shows to Michael Kors and Christian Soriano, to jewelry promotion for David Yurman Fall 2018.

The age barrier was finally broken in 2018, when models over the age of 50 were chosen to perform and appear on ad campaigns at luxury houses. Saint Laurent chose Betty Catroux, 73, as the face of the promotional campaign run by creative director Anthony Vaccarello for the Fall 2018 collection. Eighteen women over 50 have appeared in 11 promotional campaigns for Fall 2018 collections. In particular, 44-year-old supermodel Amber Valletta is one of the models appearing the most, with 7 consecutive campaigns.

Ashley Graham in the promotional image for David Yurman Fall 2018

Not to mention the case of Adut Akech, a South Sudanese refugee who, since his debut in 2017 at the house of Saint Laurent, has conquered the most famous fashion houses, including Chanel and Valentino, and broke down. broken concept of beauty in today's fashion. Variety and universality are now the most important factor in the fashion world.

Variety and universality are now the most important factor in the fashion world.

Model Adut Akech

Behind the stage

In 2017, Business of Fashion listed 15 major fashion companies and concluded that 73% of CEOs were white men. The presence of people of color only makes up 11% of the board of directors in these companies. Although, according to a McKinsey & Company report called “Delivering through Diversity”, it shows that companies with cultural / ethnic diversity are 43% more likely to be profitable, as they are ability to attract and retain talent, as well as improve customer service.

Dolce & Gabbana 2018

Diversity and inclusion are not always associated with the fashion industry, but in the final months of 2018, fashion has been "awakened". Generation Z and Millennials, new consumers, have more positive moves and require brands to express their attitudes towards issues of racism, or related to politics and society.

Diet Prada with fierce "whistle", condemning the mistakes of brands with more than 1 million followers on Instagram gradually expanding its influence. Nike selected Colin Kaepernick for its 30th anniversary advertising campaign, showing it was a smart decision with great success.

For brands that have always taken a neutral position, look at the current flow of fashion industry developments. The era of neutrality is over.

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Source: style-republik.com